Colombia is beginning to discover the flavor of its flowers

Colombia faces a particular paradox: whilst its floriculture sector has developed primarily to supply the international ornamental market, the consumption of edible flowers remains low within the country. This is the view put forward in an article published by EL PAÍS, which explores the work of growers and chefs seeking to incorporate these species into their cuisine.

In Guasca, Cundinamarca, Daniel Aristizábal grows flowers for consumption, whilst Daniel Campo cultivates more than twenty species in La Cumbre, Valle del Cauca. Among them is Acmella oleracea, whose spilanthol content causes a numbing sensation on the palate and intensifies flavors.

© Geografika | Dreamstime

Interest in these flowers began to grow in Colombia around 2015, coinciding with a greater focus in gastronomy on local ingredients and biodiversity. However, domestic consumption has not yet become firmly established. Aristizábal believes that the market remains “a niche market”, whilst large-scale distribution faces challenges relating to keeping the produce fresh, commercial conditions and losses during cultivation.

The story also ties in with food traditions that have never abandoned flowers. Some indigenous communities incorporate them into dishes featuring fish, chilli and cassava, whilst species such as the bellflower, nasturtium and borage are beginning to feature in contemporary culinary creations.

The challenge, according to the report, is not merely one of production or trade, but a cultural one. For centuries, Western society has treated flowers as decorative elements and separated them from the food supply. That distinction, however, does not exist in nature. Today, producers and entrepreneurs are attempting to reclaim flowers as food and find new ways to bring them from the fields to Colombian kitchens.

Source: elpais.com