Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay, M’diq, Morocco – Hotel Review

Summary

Set between the mountains and the sea, this smart resort and discreet spa retreat was conceived and built by King Mohammed VI as a showcase for the artisanal skills and flair that are a cornerstone of Morocco’s cultural heritage.

In a nutshell

A spa retreat and a family-friendly resort, The Royal Mansour Tamuda Bay houses more than 2,000 works of art in an astounding showcase for Moroccan craftsmanship and artisanal skills. Set on a 700 metre private beachfront along the so-called Moroccan Riviera, it sits low within a landscaped garden scented with rosemary, sage lavender and mint. While there are some big names resorts further along the coastline including Sofitell and Ritz Carlton, this the first home-grown, five-star luxury offering stands head and shoulders above the others for its service (all staff are trained at Royal Mansour’s own hospitality school) and obsessive attention to detail, as well as its sustainable practices. It’s also open all year round for dedicated spa-goers who come for Longevity programmes of varying time frames in the largest and most professional medspa in Northern Africa.

Three things I loved

• When the staff found out it was my husband’s birthday, they scattered bougainvillea petals on the floor of our villa’s marbled entrance, left a cake and sweetmeats, and gifted us the signature Panama hats and Havaianas and stylish resort tote bags that guests use
• The villas’ private pools are protected by shallow dunes. At night, when the firepits are lit, it’s a joy to swim under the stars in the heated, chlorine-free waters, even in late October
• The airport pickups in cream Bentleys stocked with baskets of dates and chilled drinks

Rooms

All 55 ground level and upper level terrace suites have sea views and are spread across 19 low slung blocks arranged in clusters through the herb-scented landscape. The lucky occupants of one of the seven villas enjoy private pools and a discrete butler. Across the board, the level of comfort and quality is the same. Every fine detail is considered, from the Dyson hairdryers, vast bathtubs and rain showers, to the Maroc Maroc organic amenities, the power points tucked away in beside table drawers, and the give-away makeup bags with face mist and sun lotion. Designed in muted shades of blue and pink and ivory, the perfectionism is such that it took a whole year for them to select the exterior’s warm shades of pale and sand.

Food and drink

The food is the highlight of the resort and, one imagines, a terrible temptation for those fasting on the Longevity retreat. My favourite moment of the day was a lavish breakfast served in-villa with various flatbreads and pancakes to make a highlight of their special in-house Amlou spread comprising ground almonds, honey and argan oil.

Of the three dining options, Le Méditerranée is the most glamorous, set back from the surf with a backdrop of murmuring waves and a stunning mother of pearl ceiling by Maya Romanoff. Award-winning chef Quique Dacosta serves Spanish-accented dishes that headline seafood in many guises: raw, stewed, grilled or in soups and pasta. Paella weekend lunches are a local attraction. For special occasions there is three Michelin-starred La Table by French chef Eric Frechon, which is open for fine-dining dinners only. For less formal dining, I headed to the cheerful Italian Cocinella.

Highlights and experiences

In high summer you’ll want to book the hotel’s mahogany Riva for a day trip down the length of this long unsung Moroccan coastline. Lunch at their peaceful mountain retreat only 15 minutes drive away offers a break from the sea breezes and a different environment. The Hunting Lodge in the foothills of the Rif Mountains overlooks Lake Smir, a coastal lagoon. Fashioned out of stone, slate wood and a generous terrace, it’s more like a European-style mountain retreat and is perfect for hiking and private dining.

What to do nearby

I was riveted by the whitewashed city of Tetouan (on a guided tour by the hotel) and intrigued as to why this UNESCO medina – the best preserved in North Africa – has managed to remain so free of tourist hordes. People seemed to be outnumbered by cats which colonised the shade beneath tamarisk and olive trees. In this secretive and deeply traditional citadel on the edge of the Rif, Spanish is still spoken and its charming Spanish Art Deco buildings house a community of artisans. The woodwork, leather tanning and zellige tilework and embroidery are specialised Tetouan skills. Further away, Tangier still gives off a distinctive roguish cosmopolitan and bohemian vibe even though the streets can be crowded with daytrippers off the cruise ships. The heaving souk shelters some amazing workshops and studios and fabulous places to eat or drink on the roof top terraces and ramparts with the sea in the distance.

The backstory

The Moroccan king entered the hospitality industry to elevate luxury tourism and showcase the country’s master artisans. As such, he had no budget limit on the refined zellige tilework hand, carved wooden panel and fine textiles, which have set a benchmark for cultural luxury worldwide. The location was important to him as it sits adjacent to his summer mansion (a place close to his heart) and he wanted to shine a spotlight on this under-the-radar corner of the country.

Insider tip

Be the first to book an overnight stay at the two-bedroomed Hunting Lodge, a 15-minute drive from the resort in the foothills of the Rif opening later this year. Even if you aren’t signed up for a Longevity programme don’t forget to visit The Quiet Pool, the resort’s hidden secret, a mediation space with a suspended sphere-installation like a full moon above the water

Wellness

In Morocco’s first medi aesthetic spa, the initial consultation uses science and comprehensive diagnostics in harmony with alternative ancient healing therapies. There are profound opportunities for recalibration and reset, with special programmes tailored around your personal levels of fitness and stress levels, your sleep patterns and metabolic and emotional balance. Not to miss are the unusual Taoist abdominal massage for energy flow and emotional release, and the lavish hammam treatment in the spacious marble baths.

Final considerations

• Best for: everyone. This resort is peaceful enough for solo travellers on a health retreat, romantic enough for lovers and honeymooners while being perfectly geared up for families
• For families: the kids’ club La Plage di Lila is given equal billing alongside the Royal Villa and Spa. There is a garden, a screening room and tech room and play area for different ages, and everything on offer from chess club to spa treatments with the parents
• Location: only 20km from Tetouan and a 90-minute drive from Tangier Airport, its location on the shores of Mediterranean with the mountains of the Rif at its back is part of the huge year-round appeal; mild enough in winter and cooled by sea breezes in the summer
• Accessibility: The ground floor rooms are very accessible. This is the perfect resort for guests with mobility issues
• Hotel group: This is the third Hotel in the Royal Mansour group (the other two are in Marrakech and Casablanca) It is also part of The Leading Hotels of the World with a Leaders Club for members to save up to 20% on best available rooms rates