Astoria remains Brazilian hub from restaurant to religion – QNS
When Brazil played against Morocco in the World Cup, Nike came to Astoria, setting up big television sets at Rio Market, also known as Rio Bonito, a Brazilian supermarket and restaurant at 33rd Street and 36th Avenue.
“They decided to do the event where you have the most Brazilians,” said Ricardo Bastos, founder and owner of Rio Bonito Market (and Grill) at 32-15 36th Ave. “They put up big televisions and showed the game.”
The score in the Brazil versus Morocco game may have reflected a little less dominance on the field. But crowds filled the grill, providing a win for the restaurant and those looking to watch the game.
Although the presence of Brazilians in Astoria is less than it once was, thousands who identify as Brazilian still live in Astoria, which remains home to some of the city’s better-known Brazilian businesses.
Just as Manhattan’s Little Brazil, on 46th Street, shrank, Astoria’s Brazilian population has dwindled, while remaining a force, from restaurants to religion, and an attraction due to reputation and ongoing reality.
Rio Bonito, with an occasional Brazilian flag inside (every product is like a banner for Brazil), continues to specialize in bringing items from Brazil to Brazilians living in the United States.
“We bring products that people are used to having since they were young, since they were little kids,” Bastos, who grew up in Rio Di Janeiro, said. “It brings back memories. We only sell Brazilian products.”
When Rio Bonito opened in Astoria in 1994, Bastos said, Astoria had the highest concentration of Brazilians and Brazilian businesses in the city.
“Now it’s not as many. Now it’s all over the place,” he said. “Rent in Astoria is very expensive. It’s close to the city.”
He said, “There’s a large community, but not like before,” as rent has taken its toll, creating new Brazilian hubs as well.
“There were a lot of Brazilians. With the rent increasing, a lot of people moved to Jackson Heights, Long Island and New Jersey,” Bastos added. “But there’s still a lot of Brazilians living in Astoria.”
Bastos said there are a handful of Brazilian restaurants in Astoria today, although there used to be more.
“We have a restaurant inside the supermarket,” Bastos added. “Everyone comes for the food. Brazilians, Americans, every ethnic group likes our food.”
Restaurant row
Astoria’s menu of restaurants includes places like New York Pão de Queijo, at 31-90 30th St., offering signature Brazilian foods such as Pão de Queijo, as well as salads, acaí bowls and burgers.
The Copacabana Grill, which calls itself “the pioneer of Brazilian BBQ in town,” opened locations in Astoria and Jackson Heights.
Founded by Jose Bezerra in 2003, according to the restaurant, he chose the name Copacabana “to honor one of the most beautiful and well-known beaches of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.”
“All that come to Copacabana Grill will get a taste of what it is like to be in Brazil,” their website says. “Serving the best of Brazilian cuisine along with perfectly grilled Brazilian cuts of BBQ at an affordable price.”
They offer more than 15 types of prime Brazilian cuts of meat along with fresh salads, soups and a hot Brazilian buffet.
Religious institutions
While restaurants keep the Brazilian flavor current, religious institutions also continue to serve Brazilians in Astoria.
The Brazilian Missionary Church, at 39-22 30th St., as well as Igreja Assembleia de Deus – Astoria, serve the Brazilian faithful, along with other churches nearby.
The still relatively new Lagoinha New York Church in Astoria provides services that are part church, but also possibly part concert.
With electric guitars and a drum set that would make a rock drummer envious, as well as a pastor who studied music, it stands out as a church and culture.
Lagoinha New York (Instagram: lagoinhanewyork) was launched a few years ago by Silas Neto in Astoria. It has grown to a congregation of around 250 with a dove as its symbol. While Astoria’s Greek roots reach and run deep, the Brazilian community remains very much at home here as well.
By the Numbers
The numbers tell part of the story. Astoria was home to 2,250 people who identified as Brazilian, according to the 2000 Census, or 1.4% of the neighborhood and part of the 15,464 or 0.2% citywide.
That was already less than the 5,977, or 3.7% in Astoria who identified as Puerto Rican, out of 595,627, or 6.8% citywide. Meanwhile, 3,735, or 2.3%, identified as Dominican lived in Astoria, out of 702,330, or 8%, in New York City.
Another 4,339, or 2.7%, in Astoria identified as Colombian out of 107,126, or 1.2% citywide, while 5,226 Ecuadorians, or 3.3%, were in Astoria out of 190,926, or 2.2% citywide.
Some companies are turning to the web to market beyond Astoria. Bastos, for instance, also launched riobonitodelivery.com, one of the first websites dedicated to selling Brazilian products nationwide.
“A lot of people buy to receive at home,” Bastos said of food delivery. “The buffet restaurant attracts a lot of people. We have a buffet by the pound. That brings everyone to the store.”
In addition to food, Rio sells some clothing, such as Brazilian bikinis, beach clothing and Brazilian perfume. “A lot of sandals,” Bastos said. “Flip flops sell a lot.”
As Astoria’s Brazilian population waned, Bastos in 2020 opened the first Brazilian supermarket in Jacksonville, Florida, complete with a Brazilian-style barbecue.
Back in Astoria, the recent FIFA World Cup, even after Brazil was eliminated, attracted a surge of customers to Bastos’ restaurant, which has a television.
“They bring the memories from the teams they used to have,” Bastos said of the current team Brazil. “Every time there’s a World Cup, Brazil’s considered one of the favorites. A lot of people root for Brazil.”
Bastos believes rooting for Brazil in New York, for many, is part of the legacy of Pelé, the soccer star who went on to play for the New York Cosmos.
“Pelé was a complete athlete,” Bastos said. “People want to know more about the Brazilian culture and buy Brazilian jerseys and wear the Brazilian jersey. They’re proud to wear something like that.”