ABL Hollywood Serves a Slice of Jamaican-Chinese History

There’s much to explore when looking at the intersection of Jamaican and Chinese diasporic cultures. Records show that, as early as 1854, English plantation owners in Jamaica brought over Chinese and Southeast Asian migrants to work as indentured laborers. ABL, a new restaurant located in a thrumming part of Hollywood, presents as a compelling blend of these two cultures, as owner Aja Dawson and her mother, Barbara (who also owns Downtown’s A Beautiful Life restaurant and food truck), explore their family’s heritage in dishes such as jerk-fried egg rolls and chen pi ji–style chicken wings. The 35-seat dining room and bar feels like an intimate hideaway in the busy corner of Cahuenga and Hollywood Boulevards. Its menu tells the story of the cohesion of people in diaspora and cannot be reduced to trendy “fusion” — so go with friends, order the oxtail lo mein, and learn about the history of Jamaica’s historic Chinese communities in earnest.

Aja designed the interior herself and committed fully to a dark burgundy motif: ABL is moody, low-lit, and dark in the best way. Custom textured banquettes are tucked along the walls, while a bright neon-red sign that reads “abl” in lowercase script emits an ethereal glow at the entrance. Casual dress is always welcome, but one might want to consider fun clothing to match the room.

ABL hosts curated events with a DJ, as well as their version of happy hour with snacks and an open bar. Check ABL’s Instagram to see what’s happening.