Its distinctive scent is difficult to miss. Deeply rooted in Morocco’s culinary heritage and traditional remedies, oregano, known as zaatar in Arabic and azoukenni in parts of Amazigh-speaking Morocco, may perfume smen, season a tagine, infuse tea or garnish a pizza. But before reaching consumers as a dried herb or fine powder, it must be harvested, cleaned, dried and sometimes distilled.
Origanum vulgare, sometimes called wild marjoram, is a flowering plant belonging to the mint family, Lamiaceae, and is native to the Mediterranean region. In Morocco, Origanum compactum is the country’s most widespread oregano species, growing wild mainly in its central and northern regions.
It is found in environments ranging from the humid mountains of Chefchaouen and Tangier-Tetouan to the sub-humid and semi-arid areas of Ouazzane, Taounate, Sidi Kacem, Benslimane, Beni Mellal, Khenifra, Oulmès and Moulay Driss Zerhoun.
In Ben Krich, near Larache, the Nawara Ait Lahjar Cooperative harvests both wild and cultivated Origanum compactum.
«We were among the first cooperatives to recognize that this variety was at risk of disappearing because of irrational harvesting and several other factors», Hafida Ait Aissa, a member of the cooperative, told Yabiladi.
The cooperative began searching for the plant and collecting seeds, which it sowed in a nursery every year. «We continued until we had obtained enough seeds to cultivate the plant ourselves», Ait Aissa explained.
Morocco has several oregano varieties. «Besides Origanum compactum, another variety, Origanum elongatum, grows in the Rif, particularly around Al Hoceima and Targuist. It is considered one of the finest oregano varieties because of its high thymol content», she said.
From harvesting to drying
At the cooperative near Larache, wild oregano is generally harvested in June. «By that stage, the plant has accumulated its active compounds, which are at their highest concentration», Ait Aissa explained. It is also a suitable period to «collect the seeds and sow them again».
In Chtouka Ait Baha, Mhamed harvests wild oregano earlier in the year. «We harvest wild oregano in spring, mainly in March, April and May», he told Yabiladi.

After harvesting comes the drying process. Once dried in the shade to preserve its active compounds, oregano can be sold whole or ground. «Some of it is prepared in bunches, while another portion is crushed slightly or blended with other herbs», Ait Aissa added.
Cleaning considerably reduces the quantity available for sale. «It is very light, and we do not find large quantities of it. You may harvest a lot, but once it has been cleaned and the stems and debris removed, very little remains», Mhamed explained.
The wild oregano he gathers grows naturally in the mountains and is sold to cooperatives for around 60 dirhams per kilogram. Its retail price can reach 150 dirhams per kilogram, depending on how thoroughly it has been cleaned. «We remove the larger pieces of debris, but not all of it», he said.
From the kitchen to cosmetics
Oregano has long been present in Moroccan households and is widely used in local cuisine. It can be added to smen, tagines and fish dishes. At the Nawara Ait Lahjar Cooperative, it is also incorporated into spice blends intended for preparing fish.
In Chtouka Ait Baha, it is used in food, added to tea and mixed with lben. «Azoukenni is especially good during winter. People drink it during the cold season, and some even burn it when they have the flu», Mhamed said.
The plant is also used in cosmetics. «During distillation, we obtain both hydrosol and essential oil. The hydrosol can be incorporated into products such as shampoo and soap. The essential oil can also be used in different preparations, but only in very small quantities because it is highly concentrated and powerful», Ait Aissa explained.
Oregano also has several traditional medicinal uses, including for digestive problems. According to Ait Aissa, its hydrosol may be used as a mouthwash, while the plant is also traditionally consumed by people suffering from persistent coughs or chest problems.
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