Malavika’s Journey: Wilderness Bisate, Rwanda
As a solo woman traveling to Rwanda for the first time, I was so happy to be greeted by my fabulous Wilderness guide, Dalida, at Kigali International Airport. I always believe that women connect with other women wherever they are in the world. Chatting with Dalida about her life in Kigali, the change her country has seen in the last 30 years, and the exciting adventures that lay ahead in my journey, was just like talking to a friend.
As someone who is deeply passionate about wildlife, the reason I was in Rwanda was to meet the mountain gorillas in one of their last remaining homes in the remote Virunga Mountains. This, for me, was the journey of a lifetime, but also one that is fairly complex to plan.
I’ve been on many walking expeditions in the wild to track snakes, apes, and crocodiles. Inevitably, there are challenges in planning travel in remote areas, coordinating with local stakeholders, last-minute weather and itinerary changes, and navigating difficult terrain on foot. It’s also important to me to be mindful of how my travel impacts the local community and ecology.
For wildlife enthusiasts, I’d also recommend a visit to the savannah at Akagera National Park for the full experience of Rwanda’s wildlife, where Wilderness Magashi is the perfect base for this expedition.
For my gorilla trekking experience, Wilderness was the obvious choice to execute an exceptional journey like this in the most seamless, safe, and enjoyable way—and also one that is deeply in sync with the region.
From Kigali, I arrived at the luxurious, award-winning rainforest lodge at Bisate to a cocoon of comfort on the edge of the Volcanoes National Park. Six chic villas are tucked into the mountainside, with cozy fireplaces and balconies that open into the tree canopy.
Often, luxury lodges in remote areas can feel disconnected from the land they occupy. This is not the case at Bisate. Every effort has been made to retain the natural character of the landscape in the design and ethos of the property. The mossy paths are paved with dark volcanic rocks, the menu heavily features the local staple Kinigi potatoes and an array of local produce such as avocados, artichokes, plantains and papayas, and lush native trees form a dense forest cover.
Agriculture is the main industry here and there’s vast farmland surrounding the lodge. On my first morning at Bisate, I met Jimmy, a knowledgeable and extremely passionate local who is now lead agronomist at Bisate. It’s hard to believe when he tells me that this wild, forested patch we’re walking through was also farmland until very recently. Wilderness’s remarkable reforestation program began even before the lodge was constructed. Every member of the team here is deeply committed to the cause they stand for: to bring back indigenous flora like African redwoods, forest primrose, and Dombeya, while also removing invasive introduced species like eucalyptus, which is abundant in the area. There is an ongoing effort to expand the boundaries of the Volcanoes National Park, which means that the forest may extend to envelop the land the lodge stands on today. It is with this future in mind that native trees that wild species depend on have been reintroduced. In eight short years, these glorious African redwoods have grown towards the sky, and flowering plants that are the favored food sources of primates have thrived. As the trees have returned to Bisate, so have the golden monkeys and African Pittas.
Understanding the habitat and interacting with staff from the local community were real highlights of my experience in Rwanda. When I set out for the gorilla trek the next day, I felt I had much more perspective on the place, the people, and even the history of human-wildlife conflict in these parts. On the morning of the trek, I was admittedly nervous. We were to trek at a high altitude of 2500-4500 meters, in unpredictable weather conditions and challenging terrain that held the true promise of a rainforest adventure, fire ants and all. Before I knew what I needed to brave this bucket-list adventure, Wilderness Bisate did. They kitted me out in appropriate hiking gear: gaiters, a poncho in case of rain, even a daypack with snacks and water. The camp also organized the permits needed for gorilla trekking and drove us all the way to the edges of the rainforest, where we met our guides.
Nothing in the world can prepare you for when you finally come face-to-face with a magnificent silverback. Watching baby mountain gorillas perform circus acts on the trees, seeing a gorilla family just hang out eating bamboo and mushrooms, and enjoy some quality time together—there’s something so familiar and yet so spectacular about it all. Conservation of this key species begins with conservation of the ecosystem they inhabit, and to that end Wilderness is deeply committed to the cause.
I came away feeling privileged to have experienced this country in a way that was mindful and immersive. A tourism model can only be a success if it involves the local community. At Wilderness Bisate, meeting the staff from surrounding areas and hearing their stories of growth within the Wilderness family was so inspiring: whether it is JP who started out in security and is now assistant lodge manager; Jimmy who began as a construction worker at the lodge and is now lead agronomist; or Ben, who came back to his fatherland from the Democratic Republic of Congo 27 years ago and is now F&B manager. Rwanda’s difficult past has only strengthened the determination of locals like them to see their country succeed. They are the keepers of the stories of this land, the ones who have seen it transform, and the ones who will feel firsthand the effects of any change—positive or negative. To experience their hospitality and hear their stories is to experience a slice of Rwanda from the people who know it best and care about it the most. What could be more special?
Explore Rwanda’s beautiful landscapes, rich culture, and remarkable wildlife through our curated itinerary, Savannah Safari & Gorilla Trekking, guaranteeing a trip of a lifetime.
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