Bodega Artesana’s colourful range featuring Zinfandel at second left, centre and second right (PHOTO BY BODEGA ARTESANA)
The origin of Zinfandel is a subject that has sparked some debate and confusion over the years as, while it is widely accepted as a Californian grape, its origins are a bit more controversial since it is believed to be both Croatian and Italian. In fact, this variety of black-skinned wine grapes, grown in over 10 per cent of California’s vineyards, has been deemed genetically equivalent, via DNA analysis, to the Croatian grapes Crljenak Kaštelanski and Tribidrag, as well as to the Primitivo variety traditionally grown in Apulia, Italy. Zinfandel is to California what Malbec is to Argentina; however, it’s a grape that is very rarely planted in this country, or even the continent. However, despite its rarity, Thursday Food managed to unearth a few Zinfandel wines from South America on the heels of the November 17th commemoration of International Zinfandel Day.
The most widely accepted theory is the Italian connection, with Zinfandel being linked to the Primitivo grape, which is grown primarily in the Puglia region of southern Italy, and which was brought to the United States in the mid-19th century. It is believed that this is the grape that eventually became known as Zinfandel. Another theory proposes that Zinfandel has roots in Croatia, where it is known as Crljenak Kaštelanski, and was brought to the United States by immigrants, also in the 19th century. In the United States, however, there are those who have their own theory as well, believing that Zinfandel is a native Californian grape, and even suggesting that it was present in California before the Gold Rush in the mid-1800s. However, genetic evidence has largely refuted this theory, showing strong connections to European grape varieties.
The Zinfandel grape has gained popularity for its ability to produce rich, flavourful wines and is today considered one of the signature varieties of California, known for its versatility in producing a range of wine styles, from bold and fruity to more refined and complex. It is thought that the name Zinfandel was created using a variation of a name applied to a different grape, most likely the “Zierfandler” from Austria. In fact, the arrival of Zinfandel in the US may have been via the Imperial Nursery in Vienna, Austria, due to the Habsburg monarchy’s control over the Dalmatian territories, where the vines were located, of the former Republic of Venice. It would be decades later that the first wine from Zinfandel was made in California by Joseph W Osborne. He planted Zinfandel from Macondray at his Oak Knoll vineyard just north of Napa, and his wine was much praised in 1857. Planting of Zinfandel boomed soon after, and by the end of the 19th century, it was the most widespread variety in California.
Despite being known for producing robust red wines in the United States, a semi-sweet rosé (blush-style) wine called White Zinfandel has six times the sales of the red wine. The grape’s high sugar content also means it can be fermented into levels of higher alcoholic volume, often exceeding 15 per cent. The taste of the red wine depends on the ripeness of the grapes from which it is made, for example, red berry fruit flavours like raspberry predominate in wines from cooler areas. In warmer areas, blackberry, anise and pepper notes are more common in wines made in that climate as well as in wines made from the earlier-ripening Primitivo clone.
Thursday Food introduces two labels of this grape that are unmistakably American, but with a decidedly Argentine charm, along with one each from Chile and Uruguay.
Tucumen Reserva Zinfandel is a wine bottled at Bodega Budeguer in Mendoza, Argentina from grapes grown and harvested in California, United States. This 100 per cent varietal has a good body and expressive richness, along with a fruitiness that is a delicate balance between acidity and structure that quickly stands out. On the nose, aromas of raspberry jam, black cherry, cassis, raisins, fig and peach are expressed. Additionally, as a clear typicality of the varietal, notes of black pepper and an earthy note with an elegant presence also stand out. It has a medium texture in the mouth and an elegant and very, very pleasant finish.
Vin du Can Zinfandel Rosé is a 100 per cent varietal wine by the UK-based Bibendum Wines, that was produced from vineyards in Mendoza, Argentina. The wine’s aroma and flavour exhibits the fruity freshness of raspberry and watermelon. In the mouth, it is juicy and light, as well as having a refreshing finish. The Vin du Can range of wines is made using a canning process that ensures that the wines taste fresher and fruitier for longer, while also being eco-friendly.
Unusual Mighty Zinfandel is a 100 per cent varietal wine from vineyards operated by Terramater Wines in Chile. The wine has a deep and intense violet colour, expressing aromas of chocolate, figs and raisins, as well as very ripe plums. In the mouth, it has good structure and body with balanced acidity, is appropriately sweet with flavours of very ripe fruit along with soft and pleasant tannins.
Vino Zinfandel Artesana is made from 100 per cent Zinfandel by Bodega Artesana, Uruguay’s only producer of Zinfandel. The wine expresses particular notes of red fruits and violets on the nose that make it very aromatically fresh. On the palate, the freshness is evident along with a good concentration and elegance in its finish.
Zinfandel grapes on the vine in Uruguay (PHOTO BY BODEGA ARTESANA)
Tucumen Reserva Zinfandel (PHOTO BY BODEGA BUDEGUER)
The vineyards of Isla de Maipo, Chile (PHOTO BY TERRAMATER WINES)
A view of the vineyards in Las Brujas, Uruguay (PHOTO BY BODEGA ARTESANA)
The wine shop at Isla de Maipo, Chile (PHOTO BY TERRAMATER WINES)
Zinfandel Restaurant at Isla de Maipo (PHOTO BY TERRAMATER WINES)
Vin du Can Zinfandel Rose.
Vineyard entrance at Bodega Budeguer (PHOTO BY BODEGA BUDEGUER)
A view of the vineyards from the library.
Vino Zinfandel Artesana (PHOTO BY BODEGA ARTESANA, URUGUAY)
Unusual Mighty Zinfandel (PHOTO BY TERRAMATER WINES, CHILE)
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